The Maison

Leather Care


A good hide asks for very little: keep it fed, keep it dry, and let it age. Here is the whole ritual.

The ritual

Twice a year, ten minutes.

Spring and autumn. Choose a dry day, take the belt off, and give it the bench treatment it was built for.

  1. Empty and rest it

    Unbuckle, lay the strap flat, and leave it a night away from heat. A belt worn daily is under constant tension; the fibres want a pause before you work on them.

  2. Dust it down

    A dry horsehair brush, along the grain, front and back. Skip solvents and saddle soap entirely — on full-grain calf they strip more than they clean.

  3. Feed it, sparingly

    A pea of neutral leather balm on a soft cloth, worked in small circles across the whole strap. Neutral, always: coloured creams will lift ivory hides and dull the black ones.

  4. Let it drink

    Twenty minutes at room temperature. The balm should disappear into the hide; if it sits on the surface, you used too much.

  5. Buff and burnish

    Buff with a clean cloth until the shine returns, then run a thumbnail of beeswax along the edges and rub briskly. That friction is what makes a burnished edge glassy.

  6. Hang it, don't coil it

    Store hanging from the buckle, or rolled loosely with the grain out. A belt folded in a drawer takes a crease that never fully leaves.

By hide

Each leather asks for something different.

Find the material printed on your belt's page, then follow the row.

Conditioning schedule by leather
HideFeed withHow oftenNote
Full-Grain CalfNeutral balmTwice yearlyDarkens slightly with the first feed, then holds
Box CalfCream polish, neutralTwice yearlyBuff hard to restore the glaze
Ivory CalfColourless balm onlyThree times yearlyTest on the tail first; never use wax polish
English BridleBeeswax dressingYearlyWax-stuffed already — go light
Museum CalfNeutral balm, cloth onlyYearlyHand-glazed; never brush the shading
Suede & NubuckNothing wetBrush monthlyCrepe brush and a protector spray, that is all

Hardware

Gold, and what to do about it.

Our buckles are cast solid, never plated, which means they can be polished forever rather than worn through. Antique gold is meant to dull — that shadow in the recesses is the finish doing its job, so buff only the raised faces. Polished gold takes a jeweller's cloth and nothing harsher. White gold wants the same cloth and a dry drawer.

Keep polish off the leather. A strip of card slipped behind the buckle while you work is the trick every saddler uses.

Never

Four ways to ruin a good belt.

  • Heat. Radiators, hairdryers, car dashboards. Leather that dries fast cracks at the fold.
  • Soaking. If it is caught in rain, blot it and dry it flat and slowly, then feed it once it is dry to the touch.
  • Silicone and mink oil. Both seal the surface, and a sealed hide cannot breathe or take a patina.
  • Over-feeding. More balm is not more care. A saturated strap goes soft and stretches out of size.

Anything beyond this — a stitch that has given, an edge gone dull after a decade — comes back to the bench. Restitching is complimentary for life.

Needs repair?

Send us the number stamped on the tail and we will arrange collection.

Write to the atelier →

Starting fresh?

Every hide above, cut to order and numbered in the ledger.

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